Wise & Proper Delivers On Ladylike Clothes

My interview with Elizabeth Law, the designer behind the clothing line Wise & Proper, is slightly different from most interviews I do. First, our plans to meet go awry when we end up at different Starbucks locations downtown--something which has never happened to me before. A quick phone call is all it takes for us to synch up, though, and when I catch up with Liz she is already waiting for me, coolly sipping a passion tea lemonade and waiting to begin.

Another reason this interview is unique is that Liz is unlike any other designer I've ever met. She never attended fashion school and admits she hated sewing while growing up. She also confesses that she doesn't know much about what's going on with the fashion industry at large, such as what the big-name designers and labels are doing at the moment. Her so-called lack of knowledge stems from the fact that she never anticipated becoming a fashion designer: "Because I didn't know I was going to go this route, I didn't really follow the typical path. I just wanted to do something creative and something that would make me happy."

The path that did lead her towards fashion design is an interesting one. The child of Chinese immigrants, Liz succumbed to parental pressure to do "something practical" and completed an undergrad degree in business administration. However, she was dissatisfied with the lack of a creative outlet in her life and enrolled in a graphic arts program focusing on 3-D computer animation. During work on her demo reel, Liz developed a nascent form of arthritis from the long hours spent in front of a computer. She took a 3 month hiatus and went to Asia to visit her extended family. While there, an aunt who worked in fashion enlisted Liz's help on buying trips to Italy, and Liz began to seriously consider fashion as that elusive creative outlet.

Striped top from the Spring '09 collection

Today, Liz divides her time between Vancouver and Hong Kong, working closely with manufacturers who transform her sketches into clothing when she's overseas. Wise & Proper derives its name from the characters in Liz's Chinese name and, true to form, produces classic, demure pieces that can be worn in the office or for a sophisticated evening out. "I want to make stuff that's timeless and not just whatever the latest fad is," says Liz. At the same time, this self-described tomboy (she's an accomplished martial artist with a black belt in Tong Moo Do and currently practices Brazilian jiu jitsu) has no problem getting in touch with her inner girly girl. For these reasons, the tops, dresses, and sweaters in each season feature simplistic lines and silhouettes with subtle, feminine detailing. Her practical, wearable designs are earning fans among fashion editors and Vancouverites alike.

Cap sleeve dress from Spring '09

The Fall 2009 collection will feature dresses galore--autumn-appropriate frocks in heavier jersey knit fabrications with long sleeves, as well as plenty of party dresses for the holiday season. Silhouettes will be loose, flowy, and feminine, with a lot of tunic dress pieces that can be worn as tops or mini dresses. The collection will also feature the luxurious cashmere hoodies and sweaters that Wise & Proper is known for.

For now, though, Liz is most excited about the launch of Wise & Proper's new online store which will ship all over North America. She wants to expand her website and find more retailers to carry her line, and has tentative plans to incorporate more eco-friendly fabrics into her designs and move manufacturing to Canada. She's come a long way since she first began pursuing fashion design, but ever the restless creative soul, she believes she still has a long way to go.

Wise & Proper is available at Boudoir, Dream, Plenty, Tutta Mia, and Twigg & Hottie in Vancouver. You can also shop the collections online via the new online store. Follow Wise & Proper on Twitter at @wiseandproper.

This article also appears on Stylefinds.

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From Shanghai With Love: An Interview With Helen Lee

Just before my interview with Helen Lee last Tuesday, I was hit with a serious case of nerves. Sure, I was looking forward to talking with the Shanghainese designer about her work while sitting on a sunny Starbucks patio in Yaletown, but more than anything I was awestruck by the quality of the AW09 collection she presented at Vancouver Fashion Week. Interviewing someone so talented is an intimidating task.

The last of my nerves disappeared when Helen showed up alongside her husband Chris. In oversized shades and a black cotton tunic, she was all smiles as she greeted me and sat down to talk.

Helen's interest in fashion can be traced back to her childhood, when her mother--a talented knitter and seamstress--made unique clothes for her which earned many compliments. She initially studied finance to please her parents, but after a friend invited her to attend a student show at a Shanghai fashion school, she decided to pursue a career in fashion. She enrolled in the La Salle school in Shanghai for 3 years, then worked in Japan and further honed her craft for 2.5 years. In 2003, Helen moved back to Shanghai and founded her casual high-street label, INSH ("In Shanghai").

With INSH, Helen explained, she sought to create a "fashion culture for Shanghainese": "I thought it was interesting to have a really local brand." She characterizes Shanghai as a fast-paced, busy, work-oriented, multicultural metropolis. The youthful INSH label provides casual and smart separates that transition seamlessly from a work day to checking out the Shanghainese nightlife.

INSH was so well-received that Helen founded a second line in 2007: The Helen Lee label provides fluid, more formal pieces to a clientele who have become accustomed to INSH, and as they grow older, demand more sophisticated pieces.

Although Helen loves Chinese culture and incorporates traditional Chinese design into her clothing lines, she shies away from being pegged as a regurgitator of Asian motifs. "Most people think of Chinese fashion as traditional qipao," said Helen. "I like to re-invent traditional elements."



Indeed, she is just as inspired by modern China as the history, art, and operas of China's past. Her SS09 collection for INSH pays homage to the construction workers--many of them poor migrants from the countryside--who are building and transforming Shanghai's urban landscape. Helen used blues and grays to evoke the workers' uniforms, and dip-dyed clothes to create ombre gradients reminiscent of workers sweating through their shirts.

INSH's graphic tees feature foil-screened details meant to evoke the reflective safety strips on uniforms, and tongue-in-cheek phrases like "I would rather cry in a BMW than laugh in a Santana [a type of cab]"--an ironic jab at middle-class aspiration. For one tee, Helen's husband Chris (himself an artist) took photos of the Shanghai skyline on a daily basis and super-imposed the images to show "Shanghai in construction."




Currently INSH and Helen Lee are only available in Shanghai and Europe, but that may change if Helen moves to Vancouver and she and Chris pursue more North American opportunities. Regardless, it's clear that Helen loves her native city. I wrapped up the interview by asking Helen and Chris the best way for foreigners to experience Shanghai. The couple came up with a slew of suggestions--visit the artistic Soho-type district of TaiKangLu, go clubbing, eat xiao long bao. But according to Chris, to really experience modern Shanghai, the best thing to do would be to "just take a walk" and soak in the vibrancy of the streets.



Editorial Photo Credits:

Models: Kimiko Yoshida, Fei Ren, Kaitlin Sullivan, Mireille Urumuri
Makeup: Tomomi Sakagawa
Hair: Kimiko Yoshida, Sharon Sullivan
Clothes: Helen Lee label
Lighting: Stanley Lau
Photography: Yvonne Chew

Top photo: Helen Lee at VFW Opening Gala. Photo by Yvonne Chew.

This post is also cross-posted on Stylefinds.

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Malene Grotrian Studio Show

Malene Grotrian and her models pose for a post-show photo op. (Photo by Toranj Kayvan. Click the photos in this post to enlarge.)

You may remember from last week's post that I met Danish-born, Vancouver-based designer Malene Grotrian at the Blushing Boutique Valentine's Day shopping party. After falling head over heels for her beautiful bustiers, Malene invited me to a fashion show at her Gastown studio. It was a good thing I got an invitation straight from the designer herself, because as I found out when I arrived last night, the gathering was quite small and intimate. Malene belongs to a networking group called BNI, and guests at the show consisted of BNI members, friends, and family only.

Malene designs evening wear and separates that can transition from the office to cocktail hour. Her pieces veer from structured, architectural lines to flowing silhouettes that drape across a woman's body. The constant theme running through her collection is "Dream into the future": She draws on "antique elements" from the 30s and 40s and uses luxe Italian fabrics reminiscent of a more decadent age, but combines them with more modern details and shapes for an overall look that transcends eras.

Malene demonstrates how the tie neck can be reworked into various looks and explains what makes her bustiers so great. (Photos by Toranj Kayvan.)

What impressed me most about Malene's pieces was their versatility. A polka-dot print tunic could scrunch up into a top to be worn with skinny jeans or leggings, or be pulled down to form a mini dress. (And unlike the AA high-waisted skirt which purportedly does the same thing, this version has enough coverage to actually be called a dress!) A "one size fits all" halter dress meant for sizes 2 to 14 draped artfully on slim women and accentuated curves on more voluptuous figures.

Photo by Peter Jensen

From left to right: A gray plaid sheath with a black cowl neck and jersey sleeves; an emerald green "one size fits all" halter dress; an LBD with a cream-and-gold bolero jacket. (Photos by Toranj Kayvan.)

My favourite pieces of the collection included a cream-and-gold bolero jacket with a sculpted ruffle collar and inverted back pleat, and an electric blue satin cocktail sheath. The sheath is a stunner from all angles with its bold colour, feathers around the bust, lace-up back, and back slit. And who could forget those bustiers? Malene paired the ones in the show with tiered full-length and knee-length bubble skirts. She also debuted her first ever leather bustier, modelled by the lovely Jacqueline Ryan.

The show-stopping blue dress! (Photos by Peter Jensen.)

Angela Murphy and her colleague (also named Lisa!) from Mary Kay did the makeup for the show. Models sported smoky yet subtle eyes in different coloured shadows, finished off with a bronze or berry lip. Justine Brooks's nature-inspired statement necklaces and earrings--made with sterling silver, peacock feathers, and stones sourced from Shanghai and Cairo--provided the perfect finishing touch, as did the handbags and belts by Danish label Friis & Company.

Justine Brooks and some of her jewelry designs. (Photos by Toranj Kayvan.)

A big thank you to Toranj and Peter for the lovely photos!

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A-Peel-ing Designs

[Note: This post was originally published on Stylefinds. I don't normally re-post my Stylefinds articles on my own blog, but I thought this was a special exception since I'd mentioned in this post that I was keen to interview Megan Berks.]

Local label Peel Designs has an irresistible allure for those who crave simplicity and femininity in their clothing. I first came across Peel when I purchased the 'Anthology' cardigan from Madison on Main. Intrigued by its clean lines and demure styling, I knew I had to check out Peel's online catalogue and talk to designer Megan Berks. Luckily, Megan is just as sweet as her creations and took the time to answer a few questions.

Megan's lifelong love of sewing and fashion design led her to study at the Helen Lefeaux School of Fashion Design and to complete a two-year textile arts program at Capilano College, after which she worked with local designers for a few years. She founded Peel in 2004, releasing a capsule collection of six dresses, jackets, and tops.

Five years after its inception, Peel has expanded its offerings and earned plenty of buzz from top Canadian fashion publications like Fashion and Flare. It's also been featured regularly in local papers such as The Province, 24 Hours, and The Georgia Straight.

Megan describes Peel's aesthetic as "vintage-inspired and feminine": "I think it can be quite girly at times but also very classic and wearable. I think Peel attracts creative, independent women who aren't overly fixated on trends and fads. They just want beautiful, high-quality clothes that can be worn for more than one season."

The 'Champagne' dress from Peel's spring 2008 collection.

Like Peel's previous collections, the spring/summer 2009 collection is sure to contain perennial favourites that women will want to wear for many seasons to come, albeit with more sustainable fabrications. "Spring 09 is really bold & fun. There are lots of pretty sun dresses and girly blouses. There is a definite move into using more organic and sustainable fabrics--over half of the spring collection is eco-friendly," says Megan.

So, what's next for her and for Peel? "I recently had a baby girl so I'm trying to strike a balance between the two!," says Megan. "I'm really excited for 2009. We're finally launching an online store! I'm really excited for this because right now we mainly focus on wholesaling to stores. It's so nice to get a chance to talk with the women who actually wear our clothes!"

Peel is available at Hum and Dream in Vancouver. For more information, check out www.peeldesigns.com or email megan@peeldesigns.com

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