Nicole Bridger Fall/Winter 2013 at Eco Fashion Week

It's been almost a month since Nicole Bridger kicked off the most recent Eco Fashion Week season with one of her most high-concept shows to date. Bridger's fall/winter 2013 collection, titled "You Are Not Alone," emphasized themes of connection and empathy, seeing beyond first impressions and snap judgments to form genuine and meaningful bonds with your fellow man or woman. To push this theme, male and female models alike—long of limb, sleek of torso, possessed of a graceful sense of androgyny—took to the catwalk in Bridger's signature womenswear. Their gender was almost indistinguishable upon first glance, inviting lingering gazes and, hopefully, a genuine connection.

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Eco Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013: Standing Armed

Wearable, on-trend clothes in luxe fabrics have been Standing Armed designer Lindsay Walsh's calling card since she debuted her label. Last week, she delivered an exquisite collection at Eco Fashion Week that had something for everyone while maintaining a cohesive design story (no easy feat, I assure you). The fact that the collection's palette seemed to be two sides of the same coin definitely helped: the light creams and pink-and-gold paisley jacquard print in the first half of the show, followed by darkier, moodier pieces in black and burgundy-and-gold brocade.

Fans of this season's baroque trend will be pleased to see Walsh incorporate the jacquard and brocade prints into tailored dress shorts, a shirtdress tunic with a high-low hem, patterned trousers, and a sleeveless top with a sharp geometric peplum. Those who are looking for sleek and simple separates to incorporate into their workwear will find plenty to love too: blouses, loose silk trousers, suiting, and an elongated menswear-inspired vest which looks so elegant loosely buttoned over an LBD. Meanwhile, the black silk jumpsuit strikes just the right minimalist cool-girl vibe, requiring only a change of accessories and shoes to be a versatile go-to outfit for parties.

Photos by Wayne Mah.

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Eco Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013: Atelier B.

Sustainable materials, local production, innovation, and quality: these are the values that belie atelier b., an emerging label based in Quebec and founded by Catherine Métivier and Anne-Marie Laflamme. Their focus on these core values, as well as their timeless designs, have earned atelier b. mentions in Lucky and FASHION. At their spring/summer 2013 show on Thursday evening, the best of atelier b.'s design signatures was definitely in evidence.

Titled "Exquisitely Slow," the collection invokes the languorous sensuality of summer days and a clear sense of nostalgic yearning. At the same time though, the clothes feel fresh and modern. A blue-and-white gingham shirtdress and perfectly tailored cropped trousers seem like they would be right at home in the 1960s or in modern day Mt. Pleasant. (Topknots and knotted extra-long skinny belts only added to the hipster chic vibe.) Classic-with-a-twist tees and blouses look as though they are meant to be worn next season and beyond. The same could be said of the shorts, collarless jackets, and sun dresses. Indeed, "Exquisitely Slow" is a worthy detour from the land of fast fashion.

Photos by Wayne Mah.

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Eco Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013: Voyou

Before I begin my series of reviews of Eco Fashion Week shows this week, I want to get on my soap box and gripe a bit. You see, I've attended EFW (and eco designer shows) for a few seasons now, and after having seen the good and bad of green fashion, I have to say: I wish eco fashion wasn't so obviously "eco." Casual-to-a-fault hoodies and yoga pants; ill-fitting, drab-coloured garments; clashing outfits that look like they were patched together from the contents of a grandmother's sewing bin--these are all eco fashion clichés that make the average, fashion-conscious consumer shudder and want to shop at conventional stores instead of doing their part to help the environment. Is it impossible to design clothes that are trend-conscious and sustainably made, that prioritize fashion-forward design as much as the environment? As it turns out, no. So for this season's EFW coverage, I'm only focusing on the shows I saw which meet such criteria.

Founded in 2011 and made entirely in Quebec, designer Lise-Marie Cayer's Voyou line is all about combining comfort with a contemporary, urban sensibility. Her clothes are meant for active Canadian men and women with busy lifestyles. Although "Voyou" translates to "thug" or "hoodlum" in French, there was no note of rebelliousness in Cayer's spring/summer 2013 offerings for women. Rather, her sorbet-hued eyelet sundresses and pastel stripes were sugar and spice and everything nice. My favourite piece: a throw-on-and-go chambray dress, so perfect for summer.

Photos by Wayne Mah.

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Eco Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012: Prophetik

As always, the presentation for Tennessee-based designer Jeff Garner's Prophetik ended Eco Fashion Week on a high note, blending runway and music (in this case, a motley mix of baroque violin, minstrel song stylings, and live folk) into a fashion spectacle. Garner's trademark romanticism, as well as the Victorian and equestrian influences for which he is known, once again play a big role in the underlying aesthetic of the collection. But this time around, his designs were transmuted by a narrative of courtly love: a vision of a young man aspiring to earn the love of a princess.

The provenance of the materials for Prophetik's creations was as eclectic as it was eco-friendly. Plant and earth-based dyes created soft shades of peach, white, pink and red. Hemp/silk blends, hemp wool plaid, and reworked antique quilts (which were used heavily in the fall/winter 2011 collection) were used in gowns, culottes, tops, and jackets.

Indeed, some of the greatest standouts in this collection were the meticulously worked coats and jackets: outerwear that showed off Garner's technique to great effect.

Favourite piece(s): the gold silk party dresses and gowns with a high bodice in the front that swooped to a low backless design in the back. Simple loop-straps that extended from the front of the bodice held the entire dress in place securely. This was quite possibly one of the most ingenious backless designs I've ever seen.

All photos in this post by Wayne Mah.

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Eco Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012: Standing Armed

After meeting designer Lindsay Walsh and viewing the spring/summer 2012 collection for Standing Armed last year, I was eager to see what she had up her sleeve for next season. Her fall/winter show at Eco Fashion Week bore the same hallmarks as her previous collection: it was full of wearable, on-trend separates made in luxe natural materials such as wool and silk.

The show opened strongly with a sleeveless gray wool trench layered over a long-sleeved dress; more covetable pieces just kept coming down the runway after that. A tight white lace dress added depth to the black silk frock with a high-low hemline that was layered on top. More gray wool separates--a bolero jacket, a skirt--followed. With Walsh's designs, the devil's in the details (like an inverted pleat down the front of an LBD).

An abstract watercolour floral in shades of pink, coral, and gray adorned tops and a printed trouser. From far away the print looked a bit like a mottled pink, star-sprinkled galaxy; up close one could see the blooms. "Very cosmic cherry blossom," I had scrawled in my notebook.

My favourite piece: the fluid red A-line skirt with hidden pockets and a skinny belt.

All photos in this post by Wayne Mah.

P.S. Add a touch of green to your beauty routine by winning a prize pack from Weleda. But you better hurry up and enter: the giveaway closes this Friday.

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Eco Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012: SVENSK

Think bow-crazed Blair Waldorf meets Swedish hipster, and you pretty much sum up the aesthetic of emerging Swedish knitwear label SVENSK in a nutshell. Founded by Diana Svensk in 2008, the line's humble origins lay in the knit hats that Svensk used to make for friends and family as a teenager. One of her girlish chapeaux caught the eye of a store who placed a large order. Realizing she was on to something, Svensk founded her eponymous label, expanding her offerings to mittens, cardigans, socks, scarves, and sweater dresses.

Made from 100% alpaca wool, SVENSK's fall/winter 2012 collection was sweet, cozy, and unabashedly whimsical. The simplistic palette of grey, red, pink, black, and navy blue underlined the half-preppy, half-hipster aesthetic. Myriad bows fluttered on cardigans and scarves, or from the tops of mittens and socks, like dozens of knit butterflies. A tiered gray poncho, and scarf and sweater dress set with trompe l'oeil hearts, deviated from the bow-adorned norm. Knitwear aside, SVENSK also showed a small handful of tailored wool coats and print dresses.

My favourite piece in the show was the short-sleeved peplum sweater: so on-trend and wearable, and let's face it, just plain adorable.

All photos in this post by Wayne Mah.

P.S. Add a touch of green to your beauty routine by winning a prize pack from Weleda. But you better hurry up and enter: the giveaway closes this Friday.

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Eco Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012: The Value of Thrifting

As soon as I saw that Value Village PR and communications manager Sara Gaugl was carrying the same navy blue vintage Coach bag that I was, I knew we would hit it off. After the initial exclamations, we asked each other where we'd found our respective purses. Mine: $40 from an Etsy vintage vendor. Hers: $10 from Value Village. Quite the bargain considering the re-issued version of that same bag sells for about $300 brand new.

Hidden gems like mint condition Coach bags, Waldorf crystal vases, and odd teacups and saucers that complete an antique china set keep Value Village's devoted customers returning for more. "What is old for somebody is new for you," said Anny Leclerc, North American supply chain director for Value Village, who also outlined the appeal of thrift stores in a recession for those craving unique style on a budget. "There are authentic and high-quality pieces for any budget. With the economy today, people need to be more creative and define their own style." The 70s, 80s, and Mad Men-inspired 60s looks making a comeback in recent years can be had for a pittance if one has the patience to do a bit of digging. In fact, Gaugl and Leclerc put their money where their mouth was with a runway show at Eco Fashion Week this season, featuring on-trend looks put together only with clothes and accessories from Value Village.

But as Gaugl and Leclerc explained, thrifting does so much more good than just keep dollars in your pocketbook. Shopping secondhand is the original form of eco fashion. After all, every pre-owned piece of clothing that finds a new home is one less garment in the landfill. Plus, Value Village partners with non-profit organizations, who give their donated clothing and household items to stores to sell in exchange for much needed funds. (The Canadian Diabetes Association is Value Village's largest Canadian partner.) Charities and organizations have received over $1 billion from Value Village to date. Save money, save the earth, do good in your community--it's a win-win-win situation.

So do Gaugl and Leclerc have any tips for thrifting newbies? "Buy what you like, keep an open mind, and try everything on."

This post kicks off a week of Eco Fashion Week coverage. Enjoy!

P.S. Add a touch of green to your beauty routine by winning a prize pack from Weleda. But you better hurry up and enter: the giveaway closes this Friday.

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Eco Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012: Sofia Clothing

I've had the pleasure of following fledgling label Sofia Clothing since its eponymous designer, Sofia Mendez Schenone, won the Generation Next competition for up-and-coming designers in 2010. (You can read my thoughts on Sofia's debut collection here and her first Eco Fashion Week show here.)

For spring/summer 2012, Sofia showed a collection which pretty much encapsulated exactly what I'd like to be sporting right now and well into next season. It's on trend and oh so pretty, marketable and wearable. Think cropped trousers and capris, tulip-hemmed dresses, 3/4 sleeve frocks and lots of sheer textures. The refined colour palette--mostly cobalt blue, orange, black and white with a bit of lavender in the form of a sleek trench--makes for clothes that can be worn year-round. The dresses would look great with dark tights and tall boots for winter, while the blue trousers would work well with leopard-print pumps and a camel-coloured sweater.

If you're eager to get your hands on this season's Sofia pieces, I've been told she's stocked at Dream and One of a Few among other stores. Happy shopping!

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Eco Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012: Nicole Bridger

After winning the FTA's inaugural Eco Designer of the Year award in 2010 and opening a new flagship store on West 4th Avenue, Nicole Bridger returned to Eco Fashion Week with a collection sure to please her devoted fans. Titled 'Allowing Grace', the soft, pretty separates in eco-friendly fabrications were full of Bridger's style signatures: muted sorbet hues, ruched waistlines, inverted drapes on skirts, drawstrings, minimalist silhouettes.

"Allowing Grace is about having a desire for something in life and then completely letting go and allowing the universe to put it into place in its own time and way," said Bridger of the theme for this collection. "One day in meditation, I asked for a guiding image to help me through this part of my life and I saw a rising sun. Have faith that it will all be ok, just as you have faith that the sun will rise every morning. Let your own light shine as bright as the sun. Be who you are and allow for grace."

Grace was certainly in evidence during the presentation as yogis and interpretive dancers shared the runway alongside barefoot models. The innovative show really highlighted the fluid ease and down-to-earth quality of Bridger's designs.

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Eco Fashion Week F/W 2011: Prophetik

As with last season, Eco Fashion Week ended with the Prophetik show. The mood was set when the audience took their seats and found fresh-cut flowers on their seats with press releases. Antique props decorated both ends of the runway. Then the sounds of guitar music filled the air and fake snow began falling. The show opened with a long white gown befitting a fairy-tale princess. It was clear that Prophetik was preparing to take its audience on a romantic journey to the past.



Tennessee born-and-bred designer Jeff Garner usually looks to history and pioneers for his sustainable fashion inspiration. But this season, he turned to the court of Louis XV. Titled "Artist Wonderment," his latest collection envisions a fantastical escape from Louis XV's regime "when art became frivolous, a slave to consumers, diseased of romantic snobbery" and into something more genuine.



Patchwork proved to be a major motif. I'm usually not a fan, but the colours and fabrics in Garner's designs blended together harmoniously and the garments had sleek lines that counterbalanced their homespun quality. Eclectic fabrications were used: silk, organic velour, 100 year-old southern quilts (Garner's own bedspread from his childhood was reworked into a jacket), hemp, cactus silk, ostrich feathers. Pieces shown ranged from sweeping evening gowns for the women to breeches and dapper coats for the men.



Music and accessories played a big part in the show. The catwalk's soundtrack was expressly composed for Garner by Thomas Ian Nicholas and Benjamin Ellin, while local bluegrass band Viper Central provided live entertainment. The shoes caught the eye of many a front-row member; they're the result of a collaboration between Prophetik and LA label CYDWOQ.



Prophetik always puts on a great show. I can't wait to see what's next.

Thanks to Mark Feenstra for the runway photos.

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Eco Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2011: Lav & Kush, Peridot Kiss

This season, Lav and Kush and Peridot Kiss continued to deliver on the looks that their fans have come to love. For Lav and Kush, this meant flirtatiousness, femininity and ruffles. For Peridot Kiss, this meant adding bright jolts of cobalt blue and purple to an otherwise neutral collection, bringing vibrancy and youthfulness to jersey separates.

Both labels' shows were a wintry continuation of the design motifs presented last season (see the show reviews here and here). Because I recently did Q&As with both designers (see here and here), I'd rather let the clothes do the talking by posting my favourite looks from both shows. Enjoy!

The subtle gathers at the edges of this Lav and Kush top make it so pretty while maintaining the piece's overall simplicity.

This black jersey and lace blouse would look great tucked into shorts, high-waisted skirts, or tailored trousers. (Lav and Kush)

Love this purple belted cardigan/jacket. (Lav and Kush)

A black jersey dress with an asymmetrical neckline and an inverted drape at the hem that would be great for the office. (Lav & Kush)

A minimalist poncho by Peridot Kiss

A cozy draped cardigan with a cool threaded crisscross closure on the front (Peridot Kiss)

Thanks to Mark Feenstra for the runway photos.

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